Orientation, Part 2




a baobab tree near the beach on the plateau in Dakar

Here’s an account of my week of Orientation, Part 2.
    Last week, the French pre-session ended and this week we had a second orientation with all of the new students. On Monday we spent the day in Yoff in northern Dakar talking about living in Dakar and eating wonderful tiéboudienne (pronounced chebba jen, I finally found the right spelling, it is rice, fish, root vegetables, and eggplant cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) and yassa poulet (chicken with onion sauce) and French fries. French fries are very popular here. Every sandwich I’ve eaten in Senegal, even the falafel, has had French fries in it.
    On Tuesday, we went back to the Marche Sandaga (sorry for the misspelling in my second post) and went shopping for fabric. We took a car rapide to the marche. I spent the ride squished between a middle-aged woman and a very skinny little boy. It took twice as long as a cab ride, but it only cost 100F Cfa (which is about 20 American cents!). There is a guy that stands in the back and collects the money and everyone passes their money back to him and when you want to get off, you bang on the wall and the car stops and you jump out the back. It’s all a little messy, but a very cheap way to get around Dakar. We bought some really beautiful fabric and I bought a couple of tank tops, as it’s way too hot to wear a lot of the shirts I brought. For lunch we ate the falafel with French fries and afterward we went to a really beautiful beach on the plateau. Dakar is an interesting mix of super urban and beautiful beach. We swam for a bit then took the bus home.
    On Wednesday we went to Goree Island, which is off the coast of Dakar. It used to be a stopping place for slaves from all over West Africa on their way to America and the Caribbean. We visited the Maison d’Esclaves, where the slaves were kept before boarding the ships. We saw the door that they stepped through to get on the ships. The island is really beautiful, many of the original French colonial buildings are still there and they are all painted bright colors and covered with bougainvillea. It’s hard to imagine the slave trade even existing while you’re there. After the Maison we visited the Musee des Femmes and learned about the women of Senegal. There was a really interesting exhibit of the different styles of dress of each ethnic group in Senegal. The ways that the women here find to express themselves through clothes are really beautiful. We had a huge, delicious lunch on the island (I have eaten better this week than in my entire previous month in Senegal) and went swimming once again. I think I am going to come back to the U.S. part fish because of all the time I have spent here in the water. To get to Goree you have to take a ferry that says Beer on the side of it. Wednesday was a beautiful day, a little cloudy and cool, so the ferry ride was my favorite part of the trip.
Goree Island

the door that slaves left through to board ships to the Americas

maison d'esclaves

Kids fishing on the dock in Goree
sand paintings made by artisans on the island

    The rest of the week we spent in orientation and on Friday afternoon we had our first Wolof class! Just as a refresher, the Wolof are the largest ethnic group here (they make up 43.3% of the population according to the CIA Senegal Fact Sheet). So, most everyone, even if they are not Wolof, speaks Wolof in Senegal, it’s more widely spoken than French. Our teacher is really funny. His name is Cidy and he is probably 6ft tall and weighs 100lbs (ok, an exaggeration but that’s what he looks like). He made us pronounce each word and phrase until we had it right and he went around asking us each the questions that he was teaching us. I’m really excited to be able to communicate with my family in Wolof, cause that’s what they speak when they are not talking to me. The most important things I learned were how to say were “Degg uma Wolof bu baax,” (I don’t understand Wolof well) and “Waxal ndank ndank,” (Speak slowly). So, I’ll end with that Wolof lesson and look out for more soon!
Much love ☺

P.S. Sorry for the repetitious description of all the food, it’s a huge part of my experience here and mealtime is really the most important part of my day because I spend it with my family or in the case of this week, the new students. Also, I'm just a little obsessed with food in general.  

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